A "Covid-Cation" across the American west

I will always remember complaints.  The howls of dissent that come from my two kids when they’re told we’re driving anywhere much farther than the local grocery.  A particular car sickness issue, too disgusting to discuss here, tops a long list of driving lowlights.  So imagine the sales pitch I had to make when the idea of a drive across the American west came up.  

 

Sells family with our favorite van

Your cast of travelers:  They are me, a 50-year-old dad and the driver for the duration.  My wife, Julie, co-pilot extraordinaire and instigator of all family adventures.  Son Quinn, 14, heading for high school, and already planning for a private jet.  And Samantha, 11, entering middle school and always game for something new and exciting as long as there is a comfy spot to curl up along the way. 

 

Like so many things in the past several months, our family summer trip began with a cancellation. 

 

We immediately began our search for “Plan B” and the idea of an RV rental emerged.  We sold the unwilling young travelers on this with a promise of space and comfort.  Unfortunately, our brilliant idea was the same one thousands of others had this summer.  That was out. 

 

If we couldn’t get an RV, we would rent the next largest vehicle:  a full-sized van.  The two plusses to this were cost related.  First, because a van is far less expensive, my “less-than-outdoorsey” self would be sleeping in a bed every night.  A map and a Hotels.com account were all we needed to replace RV style sleeping.  Second, the additional savings afforded us a flight to Denver, beginning our western journey there and saving two days of driving across Kansas and back.  (I believe multiple Kansas crossings are a violation of both the Geneva Convention and 8th Amendment of the Constitution.)

 

AIR TRAVEL HAS CHANGED

 

Your “COVID-cation” begins with the first signs of how things have changed at the airport.  Many of the parking facilities are closed.  The large ones, like the Parking Spot in St. Louis, from where we started, have closed their valet services and condensed their locations.  

 

Once in the terminal, lines are far shorter, crowds are nearly non-existent and the staffing is thin, too.  We flew out on a Saturday, and you couldn’t help but think about how many people were out of a job right now because travel, like so many other industries, has all but crashed.  

 

Word to the wise: In security the biggest change is a touch of leniency.  The three-ounce rule for liquids still exists, but if a five-ounce bottle holds hand sanitizer, they will test it and allow you to move forward.  (At least that’s what happened to us.)

 

Upon arrival at the gate, you can plan to have your temperature taken before scanning your boarding pass.  Welcome to the “new normal.”  

 

We flew Frontier Airlines, one of the big discounters, and found the experience to be a good one.  Even with extra charges for bags, a family of four could travel for under $900 between St. Louis and Denver.  Everything ran on time, and the crew members were wonderful.

 

How they’re dealing with COVID-19:  The downside here was the only nervous part of the trip from a health standpoint.  The flight was nearly full, with no built-in separation between passengers or families who are not together.  Everyone is required to wear a mask, however, and with a little “horse trading,” the four of us all managed to land seats with separation from strangers.

 

CAR RENTAL AND THE UNNECESSARILY LARGE VAN

 

Upon arrival in Denver, we discovered one more big change from the past.  The rental car companies have teamed up and begun sharing shuttle busses, and even locations.  We took a National/Enterprise bus to their location for a rental from Alamo.  The shuttle drivers do a good job of helping sort through the confusion, but it’s definitely something to be ready for.  

 

Space matters!

Space matters!

Our van was a Ford Transit Passenger Van, designed to seat 15 people.  Perfect for a family of four with a longing for space on a road trip that would approach 3000 miles.  The teen and the tween each had their own row, with space in the middle for junk and lots of room in the back for luggage.  We could gather together when we wanted to talk, and everyone could grab their own area if a sibling was driving them nuts.

 

Pro tip:  Bring multiple “cigarette lighter” USB chargers along.  We only had one, and much of the trip was spent arguing over who got to charge their device next.  

 

Also, check out the type of connection your vehicle has between a phone and the sound system in the vehicle.  Ours did not have Bluetooth or USB.  You needed one of the old AUX plugs to connect.  This is a wise purchase to make at a Best Buy or some such store before leaving civilization because they become hard to find and ridiculously expensive on the road.  You will need one, however, because there will be hours and hours spent on highways where you can’t pick up a single radio station.  

 

BEGINNING IN BOULDER. 45 MILES 

 

Boulder, Colorado was a good jumping off point for us. 

Samantha makes herself at home at the Residence Inn by Marriott in Boulder, CO.

Samantha makes herself at home at the Residence Inn by Marriott in Boulder, CO.

 

Where we stayed:  Residence Inn by Marriott on Canyon Boulevard.  It was a great way to start.  The rooms, because they’re designed for longer stay business travelers, are a touch bigger.  This allows for the configuration of two queen beds and a couch with a pullout.  That adds up to everyone having their own place to sleep and not tripping over one another. 

 

How they’re dealing with COVID-19:  This was the first time we saw the new COVID-19 adjustments the hotels are making.  The rooms are sealed with a sticker after cleaning.  When you enter, you know that no one else has been there.  I don’t know that the cleaning is much different than it was before the pandemic, but there is an added psychological comfort to this for some reason.  

 

Extracurriculars:  In the lobby, we found the usual bar area closed, but this is where travelers are making their own adjustments.  On the patio outside we came across a small group made of up folks from at least three different states who had been partying for hours.  Everyone was respectful of space, and all had masks at the ready (if not in use while sipping cocktails) and it created a fun atmosphere while never giving that crowded vibe that can make you nervous these days.  It felt safe.  Just remember to BYOB.

Breakfast at “The Buff” in Boulder, CO

Breakfast at “The Buff” in Boulder, CO

 

A quick hike at Cahutauqua Park in Boulder, CO.

A quick hike at Cahutauqua Park in Boulder, CO.

The food scene:  Before leaving town, you can hop across the street from the hotel to “The Buff.” The local breakfast favorite doesn’t disappoint with generous portions and inventive recipes, though anyone with a love for a little spice in their food might find the sausage a bit bland. 

 

Pro tip:  Another quick stop that’s worth making is the Chautauqua Park on Boulder’s west side.  Head up the side of the mountain, find a spot to park (currently free due to COVID-19) and stroll down a trail for a view of Boulder at your feet.  

 

HITTING THE ROAD:  BOULDER TO JACKSON HOLE, 504 MILES

Speed limit 80!  Woo hoo!  Interstate 80 near Rock Springs, WY.

Speed limit 80! Woo hoo! Interstate 80 near Rock Springs, WY.

 

Life on the road: The first thing those of us from “back east” will notice upon hitting the highways into Wyoming and beyond is the speed limit.  The sight of an “80” on one of those placards is enough to make a leadfooted heart soar with joy.  Of course, you quickly find that a big reason for the high-speed limit is the incredible amount of “nothing” you have to pass through to get to the next stop.  But on this journey, you also begin to discover that all that “nothing” is the part of this trip you may remember most.  

 

Heading east on Interstate 80 from Cheyenne you get your first views of the exquisite scenery that will be the rule, not the exception, for the duration of the trip.  The climb through 7000 feet of elevation into the high country give a first glimpse of the true west.  A short span before turning north onto US 191 is a bit boring, and the last such stretch you will see for a couple of days.  

 

Descending into the Tetons. U.S. Highway 189 near Bondurant, WY.

Descending into the Tetons. U.S. Highway 189 near Bondurant, WY.

Pro tip:  Look down for the Tetons!  One of the most memorable moments of the drive comes outside Jackson as you enter the Bridger-Teton National Forest.  It’s picturesque and hilly, but at this point you’re wondering, “Where are the mountains?”  Jackson Hole is a ski resort, right?  The answer comes as you round a bend and find yourself suddenly descending into what may be the single-most beautiful place in America.  You actually find yourself going down about a thousand feet into the Tetons and their toney capital, Jackson Hole. 

 

JACKSON HOLE

 

You cannot beat the feel of Jackson.  It is a town where cowboy and a corporate exec will frequently share the same sidewalk, moving between the shops, boutiques, restaurants and bars that makeup the very walkable village center.  

 

How they’re dealing with COVID-19: Mask and social distancing policies are clearly in force and being observed in businesses.  Different places go to different extremes beyond the minimum, with some going so far as only taking credit cards and Apple Pay.  No cash allowed. (There were only a couple of these.). 

 

From the standpoint of restaurants, all will ask that you wait for your table at a safe distance from others, be it in the bar or on the sidewalk outside.  

 

Liberty Burger.  Jackson, WY.

Liberty Burger. Jackson, WY.

The food scene:  This was the case at the Liberty Burger, a Texas based burger joint that made the smart choice of adding a sixth location in one of the west’s coolest tourist towns.  

 

Quinn, the fourteen-year-old, considers himself a burger expert and was two bites in when he conceded this was even better than his previously appointed favorite, In ‘n Out Burger.  His eleven-year-old sister, Samantha concurred, also providing her stamp of excellence to the salted caramel shake.  

 

In the morning, we hit breakfast at Jackson Hole Roasters, a chic coffeehouse-restaurant combo with a juice bar, fabulous coffee, and a menu to keep any breakfast fan happy. The clientele reflects the potpourri of people packed into this mountain hideaway.  In our quick stop we ran across a retirement-aged local taking in the morning paper, a pair of students from Spain, and a Louis-Vuitton carrying, cowboy hat wearing, leather coat clad woman straight off a private jet from the Hamptons or some such millionaire’s playground.  

 

A chilly summer day in beautiful Jackson Hole, WY.

A chilly summer day in beautiful Jackson Hole, WY.

 

Where we stayed:  Our accommodations for the evening were hit and miss.  Upon entering our room at the Mountain Modern, we were pleased.  The décor was recently updated and lots of fun with bright colors and a sort of post-modern 50’s look.  My recommendation is to book a second-floor room if you choose this motel.  From a construction standpoint it is just that:  a 1950’s or so vintage motor lodge.  If you’re on the first floor, as we were, and anyone so much as takes three steps to the bathroom, it will sound like a herd of Rocky Mountain moose are stampeding across your ceiling.  

 

Pro Tip:  When vacationing on a Sunday night in Wyoming, if you plan on picking up a bottle of wine to take back to the hotel, do it early.  Grocery stores and gas stations do not sell booze, and they roll up the sidewalks about 8pm.  You have been warned. 

 

Also, be sure to do a very detailed check of the weather forecasts for each stop before making a trip like this.  This group, used to the summer climate of the Midwest, was packed perfectly for a few days in Denver (sunny and 89 degrees), but not so much for the middle stretch of our trip.  We saw intermittent rain and a high in Jackson that day of just 58 degrees.  Score one for the gift shop we ducked into with the wide selection of hoodies.  And this was not the biggest curve ball the weather would throw us. 

 

JACKSON HOLE TO YELLOWSTONE/OLD FAITHFUL, 98 MILES

 

The entrance to Yellowstone National Park in Alta, WY.

The entrance to Yellowstone National Park in Alta, WY.

Life on the road:  First, don’t let the mileage fool you.  This trip of less than 100 miles will take you two and a half hours at a minimum.  I would say, “if you’re lucky,” but, frankly, you don’t want it to go by any faster.  

 

Pro Tip:  Have your wallet handy.  You begin just outside of town entering the Grand Teton National Park.  The difference between the national park and the national forest is the $35 fee to enter the park, but it’s money well spent.  You will encounter another $35 fee to enter Yellowstone, and may be tempted to start cussing the National Park Service, but all you have to do is remember that you’ll pay roughly four times that to take a family of four to the top of the Empire State Building.  These views are far superior and last a lot longer!  Note:  if you expect to go to another national park any time in the next year, buy the season pass for $80.  You’ve already paid for $70 of it anyway. 

 

Even with the rain and cloud cover we were unfortunate enough to experience, this stretch of the Tetons is a jaw-dropping sight.  This is a forty-mile range of mountains that put many of their better-known cousins in Colorado and Utah to shame.  This was the point where Samantha made her declaration from the middle row of the van that she will, henceforth, always prefer mountains to oceans.  This is a big statement from a lifelong beach lover. 

 

Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone National Park

Upon crossing into Yellowstone National Park you almost immediately saw why this was the place where a geologist named Ferdinand Hayden was inspired to push Congress into the creation of the world’s first national park.  That was 1872, and with the exception of the roads and a few rest stops, I suspect it doesn’t look much different today.  (Note: that includes the cell service.  You have as much a chance of getting a call out of here as they did in the 1870’s!)

Mid-summer snow in Yellowstone National Park.

Mid-summer snow in Yellowstone National Park.

 

The winding streams and tree covered mountains are breathtaking.  And if, like us, you are being followed on the first days of your trip by strange weather, you will get to share in one of our trip’s most unique experiences:  measurable snowfall in late June.  Yes, it snowed enough to coat tree branches at the highest elevations of the park.  

 

Old Faithful is just that.

Old Faithful is just that.

Our mid-trip stop:  Old Faithful. Upon descending to the end of this leg of our trip, the weather began to clear up for a visit to Old Faithful.  

 

Word to the wise:  Carve out a two-hour window.  It erupts about every hour and a half give or take ten minutes in either direction.  There is no schedule you can follow, though, because of the margin of error. It is just great enough to skew things by an hour or two each day.  Your best bet is to park, find out from someone when it went off last, then look for the park’s sign predicting the next show.  That allows you to make plans for bathroom and gift shop visits either before or after the main attraction.  In our case, we had an hour to kill so the gift shop came first.  Thus another hoodie was sold to an ill-prepared traveler, and at 3:18pm (6 minutes after the prediction for that hour) there she went!  

 

How they’re dealing with COVID-19:  The visitors center is closed here for the time being, and a limit is being placed on the number of people allowed inside the gift shop.  You may have to stand in line

 

YELLOWSTONE TO MISSOULA, MT.  296 MILES

 

U.S. Highway 287 near Cameron, MT.

U.S. Highway 287 near Cameron, MT.

Life on the road:  In planning our route, the next step was a tough decision.  Finding a place to stay close to this section of Yellowstone was difficult.  Everything I could find online before we left was either closed, booked solid, or looked a little scary.  Also, with an eye on getting to Portland, OR as our western-most outpost, we would have been leaving a lot of travel time on the table one day in exchange for a twelve-plus hour drive the next.  So, we chose to make Yellowstone a halfway point instead of a stopping point, and it could not have been a better decision.  Why?  Montana. 

 

Quinn discovers what “rural” truly is, near Cardwell, MT.

Quinn discovers what “rural” truly is, near Cardwell, MT.

Pro Tip:  Take the road less traveled.  We could have saved some time on the trip to Portland by taking the southerly route through Idaho.  We chose not to a) because the difference was only about half an hour, and b) by traveling north we would see another state and avoid retracing our steps. Who wants to see all the same stuff on the way back? Thank God we did this!  If the Tetons were the most beautiful single section of the trip, Montana from border to border was the prettiest state.  

 

Highway 359 near Cardwell, MT.

Highway 359 near Cardwell, MT.

The rolling hills, distant bluffs, and “Big Sky” you encounter as you come in from Wyoming live up to all the billing.  Next come the snow-capped peaks off in the distance that surround you as you tear up the two-lane Highway 287.  We traveled more than 400 miles without a sniff of an interstate highway between southern Wyoming and our pickup of I-90 in Montana, and I couldn’t be happier about it.   The last stretch before picking up the interstate took us onto Montana Highway 359.  This short jaunt on a tiny road may have been the coolest part of all, as we snaked our way through mountains just before hitting rural Montana’s version of civilization. 

 

When we got onto I-90, I figured the beautiful part of the trip was over, only to be proven wrong again as we climbed into another range of mountains on our way to Missoula.  This part of the drive resembled the one those familiar with ski area dotted stretch of I-70 west of Denver in Colorado.  At this point, Julie told me my use of the word “incredible” was becoming redundant. 

 

MISSOULA, MT

 

Grilling in the dining room of the Lolo Creek Steakhouse in Missoula, MT.

Grilling in the dining room of the Lolo Creek Steakhouse in Missoula, MT.

The food scene:  While our day of travel had the visit to Yellowstone at its center, I had the Lolo Creek Steakhouse about 20 minutes south of Missoula on my radar as the finale.  This was Montana’s representative when the Food Network picked the best steakhouse in each of the fifty states. But do not picture the white tablecloth, jacket required pretense of many of those places.  This is as Montana as it gets from the deer antler chandelier to the massive moose head that seems to watch you as you walk across the place.  The price is comparably affordable, too.  The food was fabulous.  The steaks were grilled right in front of you, and could not have been better.  Also, leaving without at least splitting a piece of the cheesecake would be a sin.  

 

A view out the door at the Doubletree Edgewater in Missoula, MT.

A view out the door at the Doubletree Edgewater in Missoula, MT.

Where we stayed:  Once stuffing ourselves at Lolo Creek, we headed to town for check-in at the Doubletree’s Edgewater location. This appears to be the spot if you’re in town to visit the University of Montana.  Ask for a room on the water side of the building, and your sliding glass door will open to the sounds of the Clark Fork River, literally steps away.  We slept with the door open just to drink in the sound. 

 

 

MISSOULA, MT TO PORTLAND, OR. 568 MILES

 

Life on the road:  This was a day to cover ground.  Lots of it.  We would be making the run from the high country to the doorstep of the Pacific coast.  The good news was the high speed limits persisted in Montana and into Idaho and Washington.  

 

The one regret as we wound down US 395 through Eastern Washington and into Oregon is not stopping at one of the stands selling fresh cherries and apples along the way.  Road construction made it challenging to pull off, but in hindsight I would have done it.  

 

If taking this route, make sure you gas up on the western end of Spokane.  I gambled on finding something along the way and ended up paying highway robbery prices in the town of Connell, WA. at a dump of a spot that also proved to be the only gas for about 100 miles.  Live and learn.  

Interstate 84 along the Columbia River near Arlington, OR.

Interstate 84 along the Columbia River near Arlington, OR.

 

We made it into Oregon and it appeared we were in for more boring desert (not what we anticipated in Oregon) when a river showed up out the right window.  That river was the Columbia, and it would widen and follow us all the way to Portland.  This is the Columbia River Gorge, a national scenic area and worthy of the title.  It begins in what still looks like desert, then remains a constant as the Cascades form. Mt. Hood eventually surfaces on the horizon, and the surroundings turn to the lush green someone who is visiting Oregon for the first time expects of the state.     

 

Pro tip:  Along this stretch, something you should be aware of is wind.  It will impact your gas mileage and throw you all over the road.  It’s not the end of the world, but something to keep in mind through this section of the west.  

 

 

PORTLAND

 

This was our first “non-travel” day, staying with a friend in Portland and seeing the city.  Another set of friends living in Seattle (Natalie and Greg)  made the trek down, and we proceeded to hit the town, as much as possible.  

 

How they’re dealing with COVID-19:  Portland, at this point, was just beginning to get back to business, and many restaurants friends had recommended were not yet open.  This forced us onto the internet to find a good spot.  

Milo’s City Cafe in Portland, OR.

Milo’s City Cafe in Portland, OR.

 

The food scene:  To meet up and have lunch, we settled on Milo’s City Cafe in Portland’s NE Broadway neighborhood.   Here, COVID precautions are evident everywhere, from the broadly separated tables to signs requesting diners wear a mask when they leave their seats.  

 

Neither the surrounding neighborhood nor the décor inside will make you think you’ve found a Portland gem, but the food will.  A good sign came before the food, as Julie and Natalie couldn’t stop raving about the iced tea.  It just got better from there with choices in our group ranging from Milo’s signature Eggs Benedict (they have several versions) to omelets and burgers.  No one was disappointed.  

 

Masked up outside Voodoo Donuts in Portland, OR.

Masked up outside Voodoo Donuts in Portland, OR.

Extracurriculars:  From there it was a short hop over to Portland’s Old Town for a visit to an institution:  Voodoo Doughnuts.  The Voodoo Doll (creepy looking and filled with jelly) was my personal favorite.  Samantha devoured a Key Lime Crush.  It’s a walk in, walk out sort of place and you may wait in line, but it’s worth your time. 

 

This city is a dream for those without cars.  Quinn, at 14, easily navigated the Max light rail system from Hillsboro (The suburb where we were staying) into the city, then took off to explore on a Bird Scooter after lunch.  All easy and safe for a street-smart teen with parents nearby.  

 

Pro tip: High COVID-19 alert means bathroom challenges.  After lunch, we sidled up to a picnic table down the block for a drink at Afuri Ramen and Dumpling. This place is a good example of the pitfalls COVID has created in Portland.  You can order a drink or food at the door, but you have to sit outside.  And, notably, if you need to go to the bathroom while you’re there, you are on your own.  Adults in our party were taking turns going to Dante’s, an old school, punk rock-looking spot up the block that would have been great for drink number two had we not had minors in tow. The checked ID’s every time you entered.  For the kids it was even more complex.  Quinn took a one-mile scooter ride to a Target store, while Samantha and I managed to talk her way into a nearby firehouse.   Most businesses in the area were either closed or not allowing the public to use the bathroom.  

 

A note on protests:  We spent our time downtown in the afternoon, and did not run across any of the unrest that has been happening in Portland for weeks.  I would add, however, that during our stop at the firehouse, a firefighter sternly warned me to be out of the city’s center well before dark.

 

John Compagno gives a tour of the Ardiri Winery.

John Compagno gives a tour of the Ardiri Winery.

The wine country: Leaving Old Town, we next ventured about 35 minutes to the west, to the town of Cornelius.  Here we visited the Ardiri Winery, which our friend Natale’s dad owns and maintains.  

The Ardiri Winery in Cornelius, OR.

The Ardiri Winery in Cornelius, OR.

 

Some will tell you Oregon’s Willamette Valley is home to the best wines in the United States outside of Napa, and the best pinot noirs, period.  Ardiri takes it a step further with one vintage, bringing in some Napa grapes and blending them with what is grown here.  

 

A word to the wise:  Find a winery with a personal touch. John Compagno, a retired San Francisco Bay Area pathologist, has merged his love of science and love of wine, producing award winning pinot noirs, some tasty whites and rose’s, and enjoying a view the Oregonian newspaper describes as one of the valley’s best.  None of the above disappointed on our visit, which the kids admitted they enjoyed almost as much as we did.  (Some of John’s homemade soup helped on that front.) It was definitely worth the extra effort to stuff a few bottles in the suitcase for the trip home. 

 

 

PORTLAND TO OGDEN, UT. (By way of Boise) 735 MILES

 

The Oregon-Idaho line.

The Oregon-Idaho line.

After goodbyes to our friends, we would embark on the longest leg of our journey.  Ogden, UT was the destination, mostly to allow us a good jumping off point into the Colorado mountains for the end of our trip.

 

The food scene (Boise edition) The highlight of this day’s trip came on our dinner stop, which was purposely timed to put us in Boise, Idaho.  We were looking for something where we could sit down, but move rather quickly and still feel like we got a memorable meal.  We hit a home run at The Wylder

The “Rex Kwan Do” at The Wylder in Boise, ID.

The “Rex Kwan Do” at The Wylder in Boise, ID.

 

The limited seating due to COVID health regulations forced a short wait.  (The rules also, for some reason, limited tables on the sidewalk to three guests.  It didn’t make much sense, but, what are you gonna do?) Once seated, we ordered a pair of pizzas.  The star of the show is the crust, which is made from a half century old sourdough starter that will make any bread lover froth at the mouth.  While we didn’t get to try them, we were hearing good reviews on the lasagna and fried chicken, too.  They boast a solid wine selection, and some local brews highlight the beer list.  Julie also dove into one of the reasonably priced ($10.50) craft cocktails, happily declaring that the grapefruit and Tito’s-leading “Rex Kwan Do” is a winner.

 

Where we stayed (Ogden, UT edition):  From Boise we settled into a nighttime drive across the remainder of Idaho and into Utah.  We hit Ogden a little past midnight, pulling into the Hilton Garden Inn in the city’s downtown, just a block from beautifully lit up Mormon Temple. 

 

OGDEN, UT TO VAIL, CO.  464 MILES

 

U.S. Highway 191 near Moab, UT.

U.S. Highway 191 near Moab, UT.

Life on the road: Today’s journey would be another where we sacrificed route efficiency for scenery and lack of repetition.  We would be flying out of Denver the next day, and the easy thing to do would be to hop on I-80, retrace our route through southern Wyoming, and spend the night in the Mile-High City.  This is all stuff we had already done.  

 

Pro tip:  Did I mention my “road less traveled” lesson?  We chose the longer road, heading down through Salt Lake City, then spending a couple of hours winding through the Utah mountains on US 6.  

 

“The Claw” as seen from Interstate 15 near Salt Lake City, UT.

“The Claw” as seen from Interstate 15 near Salt Lake City, UT.

Extracurriculars:  Quick note for music fans!  As you head through Salt Lake City, you will pass the Loveland Living Planet Aquarium along I-15.  But what stands out is not critters, but the massive stage from the U2 360 tour back in 2010.  The aquarium bought the stage, known as “The Claw” to be an architectural centerpiece of its expansion.   I almost ran the van off the road as we passed it.  

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After getting my U2 dork vibe on, we turned east into the Utah peaks for another day of feeding our new love of U.S. highways.  While the road is two lanes most of the time, it’s in great condition and has enough passing lanes to keep you from losing your mind behind 18-wheelers on uphill stretches.  

 

VAIL

 

While hardly the oldest ski resort in Colorado (it opened in 1962) Vail is arguably the best known and is also the largest.  World War II veterans from the 10th Mountain Division, who had trained for battle on skis at nearby Camp Hale, founded the place.  

 

How they’re dealing with COVID-19: It’s not all about skiing, however, and the upscale town center was hopping on the Friday night that we rolled in.  This is definitely a playground for the young and wealthy. It also managed to confirm every stereotype we’ve seen about 20-somethings and COVID-19.  They traveled in packs down the main drag with barely a mask to be seen and seemingly no consideration for the global pandemic happening in the world around them.  The good news is most of the activity is outside, and there is plenty of space to keep your distance if you’re so inclined.  

 

Food Scene:  Our stroll through Vail also took us to our “food grand finale” of the trip.  We went out with a bang, visiting La Nonna Ristorante, a relative newcomer to the trendy, high-end Vail food scene.  

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“La Nonna” is Italian for “grandmother,” and I am convinced if I had an Italian grandmother, she would have cooked like this.  The menu is extensive, with everything homemade down to the pasta.  The spaghetini crudaiolo with meatballs and gnocchi alla Bolognese were show stoppers for the kids, and the off menu, pappardelle de Bosco was lights out for Julie and me.  (We both ordered it based on the very good advice of our server.)  

 

The wine list is massive, if a bit pricey, but you can find some nice bottles on the low end of the  range.  We went with a very tasty 2013 Matanzas Creek Merlot from Sonoma for $52.  Those with fatter wallets could find several choices of bottles well beyond $1000.   They also feature another craft cocktail list worth raiding.  Julie recommends the Lavender Dream. (Vodka, lemon juice, lavender, and San Pellegrino Lemonatta) The beer selection is a little disappointing for a Colorado bar, but Denver’s Tivoli Brewing Company provides a good pilsner that will make you forget the lack of selection.  

 

My daughter’s chocolate mousse, which we all attacked, sent us on our way with full stomachs and some great pictures, as the full moon peering through the clouds over the village provided a fabulous backdrop.  

 

Interstate 70 near Silverthorne, CO.

Interstate 70 near Silverthorne, CO.

Where we stayed:  Our final night on the road would be spent at the Vail Run Resort.  This was a find at under $200 per night.  Even with a pandemic underway, Vail doesn’t seem to be having any trouble filling rooms at a much higher rate.  

 

One thing to remember:  some older places in Vail (like this one) don’t have air conditioning.  Book a room on the side away from the highway if you’re going to be here on a warm night so you can keep the windows open.

 

IS THIS FOR YOU?  MAYBE.

 

Socially distanced dinosaur in Fruita, CO.

Socially distanced dinosaur in Fruita, CO.

Is this the way to travel when you want to see new things, but need options to keep your distance from others?  Yes and no.  The most “by the book” sticklers for CDC social distancing guidelines would likely say we should have skipped the airlines, and run for the hills at the first sight of the Vail “bougie youth brigade.” 

For travelers with health issues, stay away from Frontier Airlines in favor of a carrier leaving middle seats open.    

 

The bigger questions about whether such a trip is your cup of tea are far more run of the mill.  For starters, we drove more than 2800 miles over eight days.  That’s the equivalent of driving from New York to Los Angeles.  If you love to drive and have older kids, this is great.  If you have little ones, I would suggest adding a week to cover this itinerary.

 

The Sells family at the Ardiri Winery in Cornelius, OR.

The Sells family at the Ardiri Winery in Cornelius, OR.

I told a friend about this trip, and all the time spent together and he laughed. He said for years he found excuses for longer than needed journeys with his children, who are now grown.  

 

“You can’t buy that time with your kids,” he said.  “It’s priceless.”  

 

There is no question about that.  I just spent every waking hour of eight days with my wife and kids, and no one was injured, killed, or purposely tossed from a moving vehicle.  In fact, it might be the best family trip we’ve ever taken.  We are all a little closer after our pandemic-induced journey across the Rocky Mountain West.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

George Sells